Oh dear, has it really been so long since my last post, I apologise. I’ve had an awful lot on my plate renovating our house, a miserable winter and slow spring, not to mention a shoulder injury have all triggered a tad of writer’s block.
We did manage to put up the new greenhouse which I’ve really enjoyed as I can now sow seeds for the garden and allotment and I can also overwinter some of my more tender plants.
I have also had the tree surgeon in to clear the dying silver birch, ugly conifer and numerous fruit suckers which were threatening to take over the garden.
My wonderful dad has also provided me with a professional design so I can get going with laying out the garden over the next few months, starting with a winding brick path which will divide the garden into 3 different areas.
My equally wonderful mum has sent me some apricot seeds which I will be attempting to germinate and grow on as container plants. More about that in a future post.
It’s good to be back.
Today has been such a lovely day that there really was no excuse for not getting out and doing all those autumn jobs that I’ve been putting off for one reason or another.
The grass has been cut so I’m now hoping that the temperature will drop and it’ll stop growing. Having said that the smell of freshly cut grass is lovely at any time of year. I’ve cleared some of the fading annuals, sweet peas, some of the Phacelia and Calendula, but left the Nasturtiums as their foliage still looks good! The summer flowering perennials have all been cut back and the weeds have been cleared too.
This left me with some space to finally plant out the spring flowering bulbs which have been hiding in a dark cupboard quietly whispering to me for the last few weeks, “plant us, plant us, you won’t regret it!”.
Come the spring, here’s what I’m looking forward to seeing emerge, Chionodoxa forbesii (Glory of the Snow) which flowers March/May, Iris reticulata (dwarf) flowering February/March and Narcissus ‘Tete-a-tete’ flowering in March.
Here’s how it looks now. I’ll be keeping a close eye on this border as I eagerly await the first flowers of 2013.
Not much to see yet but just wait until Spring!
At some point over winter I’ll be widening this border so that scruffy edge will be history, I might even do it tomorrow if the sun shines!
We all love the opportunity to acquire free plants, so when nature hands them to you on a platter it’s only right to make the most of them.
Here’s a succulent pup I came across lying forlorn on the decking back in the Summer. At that point it was just one leaf, probably knocked off it’s mother plant at some point. I popped it into it’s very own terracotta pot with a mix of multipurpose compost and horticultural grit for good drainage and held my breath!
In a very short space of time it has rooted well and is growing happily. I’m pretty sure it’s Aeonium ‘Blushing Beauty’ and am thrilled at the prospect of having another of these fabulous plants to add to my ever growing collection.
This gallery contains 3 photos.
Here’s another beautiful Aloe which I have yet to add to my collection. A. polyphylla is a stemless Aloe with an amazing spiral arrangement of leaves giving it its common name of Spiral Aloe. Spiral phyllotaxy is common in the … Continue reading
Collared dove on my garden fence braving the weather head on!
Collared doves (Streptopelia decaocto) belong in the family Columbidae (pigeons and doves). Their plumage is a pale pinky-grey colour and they have red eyes and red feet. Their common name is attributed to the black collar around the neck.
Collared doves came to the UK in the 1950’s spreading rapidly throughout Europe from the Middle East. They are commonly seen in villages and towns either alone or in pairs or in greater numbers where there is an abundance of food. Their diet consists of seeds and grains.
Allium cepa ‘Electric’
Today I bought my garlic and onions for Autumn planting all ready to be planted out except we are getting an entire month’s worth of rain in one day today so not even my waterproof trousers are giving me the confidence to brave the weather.
Instead I’ll just note down a few interesting facts about the three different Allium species I’ve chosen.
I have Elephant garlic which is good for roasting and has a sweet, mild flavour. Elephant garlic’s latin name is Allium ampeloprasum so is not a true garlic but a member of the onion family nonetheless.
I also bought Garlic ‘Marco’, Allium sativum ‘Marco’ which has a distinctive strong flavour and is a good storer.
Garlic needs a free draining fertile soil in full sun. Before planting the ground should be dug over, removing weeds and adding well rotted compost if needed and a general fertilizer to improve yields. The bulbs should be broken into individual cloves which are then planted 3cm deep and 10cm apart along the row. When the leaves start to die back in the following summer the garlic can be lifted and left to dry and ripen on the surface for a few days.
Lastly, I’ve chosen Onion ‘Electric’, Allium cepa ‘Electric’, an overwintering red onion for early harvest and whose young growth can be used as spring onions. Apparently it’s very good in salads and stir fries. Soil preparation is the same as for garlic but they require a distance of 12cm apart in rows that are 30cm apart so a little more room than garlic. Protection from birds will probably be a good idea as they like to pull them out of the ground.
Now I just need the rain to ease off!
Aloe vera growing commercially
Aloe vera belongs in the Liliaceae family, is a well known succulent and probably best known for its medicinal properties but did you know that there are about 325 species in the genus ranging from perennial herbs to shrubs and trees?
They come from South Africa, Madagascar, Tropical Africa, Arabian Peninsular and the Cape Verde Islands. There is a huge diversity of form within the genus making Aloe spp. desirable as architectural garden plants in arid and semi-arid climates. Despite this diversity the cultivation of the majority of the Aloe species is surprisingly similar. They will tolerate depleted soils with low fertility and require high light levels.
I have two specimens namely Aloe ferox, Cape Aloe and Aloe striatula, Haw. Since I live in a temperate climate I will need to treat my Aloes as glasshouse plants, bringing them in before the frosts arrive. The ideal winter temperature for them is 7-10 degrees centigrade so an unheated room will be fine. When I brought them home from the nursery the first thing I did was to pot them on into terracotta pots using a mixture of John Innes No. 3 for mature plants and horticultural grit (at a ratio of 3:1). They need a mineral based growing media which is free draining. You can also add a small amount of organic matter such as moss peat or leafmould but not to the extent where its breakdown might slow down drainage which needs to be sharp.
This little beauty, under the right conditions can grow to 3m in height! Mine’s got a long way to go. It comes from Cape Province, South Africa, hence it’s common name, Cape Aloe.
Aloes should only need to be repotted every 3 to 4 years (in late winter or spring) so it’s important to plant them firmly and in the right media. During the summer when all risk of frost has passed they can go outdoors in a sunny position. Watering should be carried out when the potting medium is almost completely dry and only then should you drench the soil and then wait again for it to dry out. During winter the potting media should be kept dry but not arid so only minimal and infrequent watering is necessary. When the pot is full of roots a liquid feed can be given. Scale insects and mealybug are the two most likely pests you’ll encounter.
A. striatula is a shrub reaching 1.75m in height. It comes from Cape Province (South Africa) and also Lesotho.
Spotted in our garden today, the Silver Y moth, Autographa gamma is quite widespread occurring in Europe, North Africa and much of temperate Asia.
Migrants arrive in the British Isles in Spring and produce a second generation in Autumn though these don’t usually survive the winter. It’s usual habitats include gardens, farmland, wasteland and open countryside, plenty of all of those around us. The caterpillar feeds on low growing plants and is sometimes a pest of lettuce, peas and other crops. It’s a yellowish green or dark olive green with wavy white lines along its back and a white stripe down each side. Its head is green with a black stripe each side. I’m not surprised we’ve seen this moth because they do fly both at night and during the day.
Garlic has long been known for its health benefits and I eat rather a lot of it, so this year I thought I’d have a go at growing my own.
Garlic prefers a light, well-drained soil in full sun, it won’t tolerate wet and heavy soils. If this is your soil you can plant in modules in the autumn and plant out in Spring as the weather improves. Garlic can only be grown from bulbs because viable seed is extremely difficult to produce at present.
There are two types of garlic, ‘hardneck’ and ‘softneck’ referring to the way they grow. The hardneck varieties produce a flower stem known as a scape which can be used in soups, curries and stirfries and has a more delicate flavour than the bulb. The softneck varieties don’t produce a scape but have a longer shelf life.
Garlic needs a cold period to grow successfully so the best time to plant is the autumn though there are spring planting varieties available. The bulb should be carefully split into it’s separate cloves and each clove planted 2.5cm below the surface with the root scar facing down, the clove should be sitting just below the surface. They should be planted 10cm apart in rows that are 30cm apart. Addition of compost at the planting stage will help the soil structure keeping it light and feed the cloves as they grow.
Garlic plants …
Garlic needs limited maintenance except for keeping it weed free, watering during long dry spells and protection from birds who’ll be tempted to pull the bulbs out of the ground. There are two diseases to look out for which are white spot which will rot the roots and eventually the bulb too and rust which shows up as rusty spots on the leaves. There is no cure for either and you should avoid growing garlic in the same spot for at least 3 years if you have either of these problems. Crop rotation will help to discourage these pathogens.
Autumn planted garlic can be harvested around June or July the following year. You know when it’s ready to harvest when the leaves start to turn yellow, don’t put this job off or you may find the bulb re-sprouts causing it to rot later and thereby reduce its shelf life. Take care when lifting the bulbs out of the ground not to damage them with your trowel as this too will compromise their keeping qualities.
Posted in Cultivation, Herbs, Plants, Vegetables
Tagged cultivation, food, garlic, garlic clove, growing garlic, herb, plants, vegetable, vegetarian